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Arizona is the newest of the lower 48 states, having been created in 1912. The perception of the state is generally of desert, cactus and gunslingers, but as I found there is a great diversity across the land. Arizona has some of the most spectacular natural scenery in the US, if not the world, including the likes of the Grand Canyon.

I visited Arizona in April 2004, when I went to see some of the people I had lived with in Valencia for the previous academic year. I was based in Flagstaff for a week and made day trips from there to Monument Valley, Sedona and the Grand Canyon amongst others. I also had a brief visit to Phoenix, and I flew home from Los Angeles after getting an overnight train.

Flag Station

Flagstaff sits on historic Route 66 as well as being on the Santa Fe railroad. It is the nearest sizeable place to the Grand Canyon, 70 miles away, and is the third city in Arizona.

The town of Flagstaff from up near the Lowell Observatory, from where Pluto was discovered in the 1930s. Flagstaff's altitude of about 7000 feet means that it is a good clear place for astronomy, and the thin air also means you can get drunk more easily.

The view from 'Make-out Point'

The San Francisco Peaks

The San Francisco peaks form a spectacular backdrop to Flagstaff, Humphrey's Peak in the centre is the highest point in Arizona at 12633 feet. The Arizona snowbowl is a popular ski resort with varying snow reliability, which has led to the proposal of more snow making facilities on the mountain. However the area is also sacred land to 13 Native American tribes who have already had to put up with the destruction of their forests for the ski industry, and don't want any more.

We visited the PowWow at Northern Arizona University's Skydome arena, where there were two days of Native American chanting and dancing. This chap is dressed for the fancy dance contest, in full regalia.


Grand Canyon

My first glimpse of the Grand Canyon through the trees as we marched up to the edge ready for our descent. The canyon is never less than four times as wide as it is deep, so I'm told, which means that at the depth here of 1 mile (!) the opposite rim is four miles away.

After we had hiked down the Kaibab trail about halfway to the Colorado River, Pat had a little snooze while I took some photos. There are warnings at the start of the trail telling you not to try to hike to the river and back in one day as you will probably die, but nonetheless we met some keen German and Swiss people who were on their way back up having just been right down to the water's edge, and they were still in good spirits.

Forty winks


A view from the south rim again, as the sun went down all the colours changed. The quietness was very nice. The hike was not quite what I was used to, as normally I start with a lot of "up" before a significant amount of "down" rather than the other way round. It's this which catches people out, they think they're doing fine all the way down but when they start the 5000 foot ascent they get into trouble.

This is a view of Slide Rock State Park to the south of Flagstaff, and it was not too much unlike Linn of Dee near Braemar by design. People were jumping off cliffs into the freezing cold water, and sliding down the natural chutes in the rocks which the river has carved. We also had a short hike upstream through the gorge.

The great outdoors


Sedona, yet further south of Flagstaff towards Phoenix is a very scenic tourist town which due to its strict building planning laws and colour harmonising, boasts the worlds only McDonald's with blue arches not golden. This is the view from near the airport.

Here I stand at the Arizona/Utah state border, on my trip up to Monument Valley. My journey took me through Navajo land and if I could pick up anything on the radio it was none other than Navajo FM. These are the places where there are no people for miles around, the tumbleweed blows through, and the vultures circle above.

Welcome to the Grand Canyon state


Monument Valley is famous for these rock formations known as the "Mittens" which were formed by some strange geological and erosion processes. They are sacred to the Navajo, and as such rock climbing is not usually permitted. The area spans the Arizona/Utah border and there is a dirt track which you can drive round to see the best views. The mittens are between 500 and a thousand feet in height.

These three rock spires are known as The Three Sisters, and they were tricky to photograph in the late afternoon with the low sun.

When shall we three meet again?


This is John Ford Point, named after the director who shot much of his famous work for the old Hollywood westerns here. More recently some of "Back to the Future III" was filmed here.

In the mid-right of this photo stands the "Totem Pole", a very slender and tall spike of rock, famous in the world of rock climbing. It is eight metres wide and 125 metres tall (over 400 feet).

Totem Pole

The West

This picture was on a postcard in the visitor's centre, which I gave to the person at the till and asked "tell me how to get here". So I was pointed further up the road into Utah to this archetypal American open road, the essence of Easy Rider and other such things. I had always assumed that this was Route 66 but in fact it is Route 163, this view is looking south back towards Arizona which is about 20 miles away. Although there were very few cars I still kept checking over my shoulder to make sure I wouldn't get flattened by the next truck mid-photo.

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Copyright © Ross Wattie 2004